You need to provide the proper foods the parent would feed it. They must eat many times a day. Only a professional should try to feed baby birds.
Do you have an aviary? Or just a cage. Birds need lots of room.
Fresh water. Tree branches instead of dowels. Don’t hang any mite poison. Try to make it as natural as you can.
you need nesting box and nesting material
to keep babies warm
call your local pet shop
You can buy baby bird food at your petstore. It’s like pablem for babys. You mix it with warm water and hand feed the little guys every few hours. Good luck!
I would assume that this baby parakeet is at your house, and if so, you should probably check with a vet on its health. For the meantime, I would keep it in a warm, well-lit room, with plenty of food and keep a close watch on it.
You have got to make sure the parents are getting enough to feed the babies and themselves as well. Big boxes for nesting and pine shavings found at the pet store plus some of those PARAKEET FRUIT PELLETS. Make sure the room is warm and the parents are going in and ut of the box. I feed mine parakeet seed parakeet pellets Kaytee hand feeding formula and wheat bread. If the box is too small the babies can get trampled on and die. I had 6 hatch out last week and the 2 littest ones got trampled on. So I changed them all into a larger box. Then I went out and bought 3 more grown keets LOL! I am so bad! @_@ LOL!
got to a breeder for serious help it would be tragic to lose a baby bird.
The Budgie / Budgerigar / Parakeet
Feeding: Vegetarian. Make sure your budgie has clean food and water throughout the day. Change water twice daily, morning and evening. Budgies can be offered a variety of foods. Special care must be taken to ensure that your budgies get a well balanced diet, as nutritional deficiencies are a common cause of illness and death. Although seeds are a budgie’s basic diet, if fed only on seeds, they will develop an iodine deficiency, making them susceptible to goitre (swelling of the thyroid gland).
What can I feed my Budgie?
Budgie mix (shown on right) can be purchased at the pet shop and is a staple diet containing a mixture of millet, oat groat and canary seeds. The diet should also include a daily offering of fruits and vegetables. Who likes to eat the same thing all the time anyway? Don’t be surprise if your budgie doesn’t eat the fruits or vegetables at first. It make take months, but keep trying. Thoroughly clean any fruits and vegetables you feed to your bird. You can offer your budgies apples, grapes, guava, mango, orange, pomegranate, watermelon, blanched or grated carrots and green leafy vegetables such as lettuce and spinach. However, do not feed them cabbage, as cabbage will make your budgie sick. Some other foods to avoid are chocolate, avocado, beans, croton, eggplant, raw peanuts, apple seeds, raw potatoes and asparagus. It’s important for budgies to have calcium in their diet. Budgie owners provide their bird with calcium by placing a piece of cuttlebone (the bone of the cuttlefish) in their cages.
Note: Budgies shell the seeds when they eat. Therefore what may look like a container with food might be a container full of shells (husk). Don’t be fooled and let your budgies starve. This is a common feeding mistake. Also, you should never put new food on top of old food. Discard the old food and shells first. Keep it clean. A dirty feed container is a breeding ground for bacteria. Remember to change the drinking water regularly since food will get into it and your budgie might decide to take a bath in it as well.
Cage Size: The general rule is that bigger is better. Your budgies must have enough room to fly around for exercise. The length of the cage is more important than the height. The guideline suggested for minimum cage size is as follows:
20″x12″x18″ for 1 Bird
40″x20″x32″ for a Pair
The space between the bars is also quite important. If they are too wide, you can guess what will happen, the bird will get out. The budgie may also get his head or body stuck if it tries to squeeze through the bars. To prevent this from happening, make sure that the spaces between the bars are no wider than ? inch. Some budgie enthusiasts also recommend that you get a cage with horizontal bars and to avoid those with only vertical bars. This is especially so when the cage is small, since the budgie will do more walking & climbing than flying. The horizontal bars help the budgie to get a better grip when climbing on the cage.
Special Requirements: Exercise. Budgies need exercise everyday, especially if they live in small cages. They need to stretch their wings and fly around. Budgies that live in small cages should be allowed out of the cage for some exercise. Before you let your budgie out, you must make certain the room is clear of hazards. You probably don’t want your budgie to take an outdoor excursion, he may never come back, so make sure all doors, windows and other escape routes are closed. Make sure ceiling fans, or any other fans are turned off (I am sure you don’t need an explanation why). Open flames, mirrors, transparent glass windows or doors, cats and dogs all can make your budgie a dead bird. You must also be wary of drinking glasses or any containers with liquid. You certainly don’t way your budgie to drink something poisonous or take swimming lessons.
Baths. Unlike some dogs, budgies like to take baths everyday. Provide a pan of water about 6 to 8 inches in diameter, with a water depth no deeper than 1 inch. It should not be a swimming pool or your bird might drown. An unused plant saucer will do fine. Keep the pan clean because the bird will drink from it as well. The cage will get messy after a bath, so be prepared to do some cleaning.
Sleep: A budgie needs 12 – 14 hours of sleep. Keep the bird in a quiet place away from TVs or radios. If necessary, cover the cage with a cloth to relax the budgie, and to keep out cold drafts. Leave the cage partially covered so that the budgie can see out. Make sure the cloth does not have a strong smell of detergent since it may cause the bird to have difficulty breathing. Cover the cage around the same time every night so that your budgie can develop a routine sleeping time.
Common Diseases: Scaly face disease – This is caused by Cnemodocoptes mites. These mites cause scales to appear on the affected area, usually the face, cere, eyelids and legs, and can cause beak deformities.
Respiratory Disorders – This is usually caused by living in a dusty environment or by mites. Make sure the bird’s cage is cleaned regularly (every week). Respiratory disorders can be treated with Biomycin Antibiotic, available in pet stores.
Signs of Illness: Sudden changes in behaviour, fluffed up feathers, difficulty breathing, glassy eyes, poor reaction to stimuli, submissiveness, drinking more than usual, lost of appetite, weight loss.
Caring for your New Parakeet
A parakeet is just about the PERFECT pet for a first-time owner. They’re very easy to take care of. They’re very intelligent and can even learn how to talk. And they’re inexpensive, going from between $20 to $50 depending on the type you wish to purchase.
Make sure you read about Buying a Parakeet first for suggestions on how to choose this little bird, and what sort of cage to bring home with it. So now you have a nice, big cage, with fresh food and fresh water in it, some newspapers lining the bottom of it, and a nervous but alert little feathered creature within. What do you do now?
Well first, think of your first day of school. Wasn’t it scary? You didn’t know anybody and didn’t know what you should do. It’s just like that for this little bird. It’s afraid, everything is new, and it doesn’t have anywhere “safe” to run. So let it learn that its cage is safe. Put the cage in the room you’re in most of the time – not off in a corner somewhere that people only go when they sleep. So if you’re always in the kitchen, put the cage in the kitchen. If you’re always in the computer room, put it in the computer room. But put it in a corner of the room where it can both see and hear everything, and also have a ‘nook’ that feels safe. Drape a cloth over the wall-side of the cage to give it even more safety. Birds like to be ‘up high’ to be safe from cats and predators, so now your bird can sit high in the cage and have the cloth around it on a few sides. That is very safe feeling. It also keeps out drafts for when the bird sleeps.
Keep loud noises down. Talk normally, so the bird isn’t afraid of the silence. Birds get VERY paranoid when it’s completely silent, because this normally means (in the wild) that some sort of predator is around. So play soft music, talk quietly amongst yourselves and keep an eye on the bird. Eventually he’ll realize that he’s not going to be eaten. He’ll start examining his cage, maybe taking a bite of food or a sip of water. He’ll explore his new little world and see that really, it’s not that bad. It’s actually kind of nice.
Once your parakeet has gotten over the initial fright, keep him reminded that you are a part of his new world. Don’t run to the cage, don’t make loud noises. But wander over and talk sweetly to him. Tell him he’s a good bird, a pretty bird. Parakeets love words with ‘hard’ sounds in them like K and B and T. They learn those words very quickly. If your parakeet was hand raised, he may already be ready for finger-sitting, but if you got a bin-o-budgies bird, it may take a while. So spend the next two weeks focussing on this, because this is key. See Training your Bird to Sit on your Finger for help with that.
Once your bird is finger-trained, you can let him out to explore his new world! Make sure ALL doors are closed and it’s even good to make a special sign to hang on each door saying DO NOT OPEN. You want to make sure it’s extremely clear that a bird is loose so that the door stays shut. Birds love to fly! And now that your bird knows his home is the “safe place to return to” and also that your finger is the place to fly to, you can know that his explorations of the room will end with him returning home again.
Enjoy!
Budgie Care & Advice
A Big Surprise For Owners of Australian Parrots & Budgerigars.
There��s no such thing as an Australian fruit or vegetable!
Yes, it��s true Australian birds in the wild never ate fruits and vegetables because until 1788 there weren��t any!
It comes as a surprise to many Australian parrot owners to hear that before white settlement, a mere 200 years ago, there were no fruits and vegetables in Australia. Everything we white Australians eat originally came from other continents. But, Australian parrots had been eating eucalyptus barks, saps and leaves for several millions of years before white man came to Australia and they still do! The trees are still here and the birds are still here!
That��s not to say that our birds won��t eat fruits & vegetables. They do and some parrots love them. In fact some species are recognized as pests in Australia because they raid vegetable gardens and orchards. But did you know that they also raid commercial eucalyptus plantations too? This is because they need the goodness that��s contained within those eucalyptus trees. It��s natural to them because they evolved alongside these trees and their digestive systems are designed to cope with eucalyptus leaves, barks and saps.
Here��s a list of fruits, vegetables & cereals that are not Australian and were never seen on the entire Australian continent until after white settlement in the year 1788. The list is far from complete but we challenge anybody to find a readily available Australian fruit or vegetable.
Fruits:
Apples
Apricots
Bananas
Blueberries
Cherries
Currants (any)
Fejoas
Grapes
Grapefruit
Jackfruit
Kiwi Fruit
Lychees
Nectarines
Mandarins
Melons
Oranges
Peaches
Plums
Pears
Rambutans
Raspberries
Starfruit
Strawberries
Tomatoes
Vegetables:
Asparagus
Beets
Broccoli
Cabbages
Carrots
Cauliflower
Cucumber
Lettuce
Onions
Parsnip
Potatoes
Radishes
Rutabagas
Spinach
Zucchinis
Cereals:
Corn
Maize
Rice
Rye
Wheat
We don��t advise against giving your parrots any of these foods, we just thought you��d find it interesting. So.what do you think Australian parrots and cockatoos have been supplementing their diets with for all these millions of years? Yes, you guessed it, Eucalyptus.
So what��s native to Australia that we eat today? Well�� we��re sorry to have to admit it but only the Macadamia nut and that was first cultivated by the Americans in Hawaii in the 1920s.
A word about bird cage toys:
No matter what we do for our pet bird, the inside of the bird cage can never even come close to a pet bird��s natural environment. No matter what kind of pet bird you have, in the wild it would never have seen anything like the kind of bird toy you usually find in most pet stores these days.
Smooth blocks and balls in unfamiliar geometric shapes made in carpenters workshops from woods that don’t exist in the wild bird��s natural habitat can��t be ideal for any cage bird. To top it off they��re then dipped in unnatural (and sometimes toxic) chemical dyes. How can they be healthy items for inclusion in a bird cage?
Do your bird a favor. No matter what kind of pet bird you have – try to get hold of some of the tree branches or leaves it would normally come across in nature. Just watching your bird enjoy itself will reward you.
Remember the toy is for your pet bird. Bird cages and bird toys are not supposed to be there as ornaments for us humans to look at. If your pet bird is a budgie then try toys made from the Eucalyptus trees that the wild birds (budgies) live with in their natural environment. Click here for natural budgie toys.
Budgerigar Diet
Budgies in the wild eat both ripe and unripe seeds. The reason for the consumption of unripe seeds is that they carry more assimilable lysine. You can, in part, duplicate this situation at home with your pet budgie by giving him/her grass seeds from your gardens. Wild budgerigars feed upon grass seeds; mainly on the ripening seeds of the Australian Spinifex and the Mitchell grass which they supplement on a daily basis with Eucalyptus leaves, buds and bark. They sometimes also feed on a few other plants depending on where they are.
Native Budgerigar
Native Budgerigar
The reason for this is that wild budgies are nomadic and don’t always come across the same vegetation every day. Territorial birds diets are fixed by what is available in their territory but the budgie has to adapt and this is part of what has made it such a popular pet. Anywhere in the world it’s possible to find a diet budgies can exist on.
Native Budgie food
Being able to exist though, doesn’t necessarily mean that the budgie is at its happiest or healthiest. However, as long as you try to stick as closely as possible to what natural budgies consume your pet bird should have a long and happy life.
Pre packaged bird seed differs from country to country depending on what’s available but here are the ingredients you should be looking for on the package: plain canary seed, oats, milled millets including white millet, pannicum millet, Japanese millet and French millet. Budgies can also benefit from seeds of the sunflower, safflower, wheat, buckwheat and maize.
Tasty eucalypt nuts that budgies love to chew.
A Budgie smorgasbord – nuts and leaves
If you want to mix your own feed a basic mix would consist of 40 % canary seed, 20 % pannicum millet, 20 % French millet, and 20 % oats. Pretty simple isn��t it? Don’t forget that your bird also needs dietary fiber in the form of green stuff and they find lettuce or dandelion leaves appealing.
However, if you give your budgie a Eucalyptus leaf or two per day that��s all the green stuff it needs to get all the trace elements, minerals and amino acids it requires. Eucalyptus leaves are also the original budgie medicinal tonic. They act as mite deterrents. They��re bacteriocidal too and act against internal (gut) parasites so they keep your pet healthy. Click here for natural Eucalyptus leaves.
How to Care for and Tame your Budgerigar
THE FIRST FEW DAYS
To achieve the results I have, it is my recommendation that in respect to cage set-up, do not place a mirror in the cage from day one and additionally I would urge you not to place the cage anywhere near a mirror where your budgie can see itself, even from a distance.
The aim here is to encourage the baby bird to bond primarily to you from a very early stage.
For the first few days you should basically leave your budgie alone and try not to move the cage. Hopefully you’ve placed the cage in an ideal and regular location.
Only after the first few days should you move the cage around the house for short spells to get your budgie used to other rooms of the house. Let it get used to the sights and sounds of its new environment – for example, let it get used to seeing and hearing the vacuum cleaner, radio, TV etc. All this is good preparation for the day when it is let out of the cage – by then nothing should startle or frighten it.
FINGER TAMING
The finger taming effort you put in at this point is an absolutely essential first step. It will act as a guarantee that your bird can be returned to its cage without any major drama.
By this time your budgerigar should be used to human company and this Chapter is primarily all about developing your bird’s trust and confidence which is vital if you are serious about having a pet that looks forward to coming out of its cage not only for daily exercise and play but to be with you.
As I have mentioned earlier, never clip your bird’s wings.
This will rob it of its natural inquisitiveness and spontaneity which will be particularly evident when it is out of its cage for the first time.
The thrill of the bonding process is when your budgie flies to you of its own accord.
This comes about only through patience, tender loving care and trust.
SECURING A ROOM
PRIOR TO TAKING YOUR BIRD OUT OF ITS CAGE
By the time you��re ready to act on this Chapter, your budgie is finger tame and you feel confident enough to take it out of its cage.
First however, you must decide which will be the first room that you let it out in and take all the necessary precautions.
In the next Chapter you will see why you let it out in this room only and then proceed from there to other rooms of the house, only after securing room by room, so that in the end your bird is at home in all the rooms of your home that are secure.
What do I mean by securing a room?
It is important that your bird��s first outing must be a relatively stress free experience. For example, if the first training room happens to be the kitchen, it is absolutely essential that:
Hotplates are not only off but they are cold.
Sinks must not be full of water
Soup bowls must be covered with a lid.
A hot iron is not out.
Chocolate or avocado is not lying about – These are toxic to all parrots and can be fatal.
Additionally, mirrors should be covered and in respect to clear glass windows (at least until the training is complete) blinds/curtains should be partially drawn.
In this Chapter I deal extensively with the issue of not letting your budgie be distracted by mirrors and why clear glass windows should be partially covered
Initially, a bird does not realise clear windows are a barrier and if flying into one your budgerigar could break its neck.
TAKING YOUR BIRD OUT OF ITS CAGE
This is a most exciting time – taking your budgie out of its cage for the first time.
If you adopt the lessons of this Chapter you will have a bird that is fully bonded to you.
It will fly to you of its own accord.
It will understand not to fly into clear glass windows in that room �C it is absolutely essential that in respect to clear glass windows, the techniques adopted for this be repeated room by room.
By the end of this Chapter you will have reached the stage where your budgie is happy to come out in a particular room and knows its way around perfectly and only needs an outstretched hand and a few words to fly to you at will.
It probably has some favorite places to land and found some favorite things to play with.
TEACHING YOUR BIRD TO TALK
Training with a fully bonded tame budgerigar out of the cage is the essential ingredient. That is, your bird is sitting calmly on your finger right up to your face.
budgie information
parakeet care
1) budgie or parakeet – what is the difference?
The term ‘parakeet’ is almost a catch-all name given to many smaller parrot species, usually slim birds with long pointed tails.
The name ‘budgie’ or ‘budgerigar’ comes from Australia where budgies live in the wild.
The budgie does have alternative names given to it such as shell parakeet and warbling grass parakeet, hence people calling them budgies and parakeets. A lot depends on which part of the world you live in. In the USA a budgie is often referred to as a parakeet.
2) budgie illness / budgie health – is my budgie sick ?
In the wild if budgies let their guard down and show they are unwell they will become the victims of predators. Therefore it is natural for budgies to conceal their illness as long as possible.
By observing your budgie daily you will learn its normal behavior and anything out of the ordinary should draw your attention. If your budgie looks ill it normally means it is really sick and can deteriorate extremely quickly.
When you detect any of the following signs of illness you should take your budgie to an avian vet as soon as possible – try to visit a vet experienced with birds so a correct diagnosis can be given.
Signs of illness to watch out for:
abnormal breathing
abnormal droppings (note the quantity, color, consistency)
abnormal feathers, feather growth, or molt
abnormal sleep pattern:
- continuous
- both feet on the perch when normally one foot is tucked up
- head tucked under the wing
- head turned towards the wing with eyes only partly closed
any change in normal activities:
- talking or chirping
- playing with toys
- preening
- interaction with other birds
- interaction with humans
- energy levels
- different perching area
black spiky head feathers (except during molting)
bleeding
discharge from the beak, eyes or nostrils
disorientation
drinking a lot more water than usual
drooping head, tail or wings
dull or swollen eyes
excessive feather picking or plucking
face and head feathers coated with mucus and semi-digested seed
falling off the perch
fluffed up appearance
hunched over posture
loss of appetite
lumps or swellings on the body
sitting on the bottom of the cage
soiled vent
untidy appearance
vomiting
weight loss
3) budgie lifespan – how long will my budgie live for ?
The average lifespan of a budgie is 8 to 10 years. It is not unusual for a budgie to live to 14 years of age and the occasional budgie makes it to 20! To insure your budgie has a long and happy life provide:
a clean cage
daily exercise
a healthy diet including fresh fruit and vegetables offered daily
plenty of activity and companionship
4) budgie sexing – is my budgie male or female ?
You need to look at your budgie’s “cere”. The “cere” is the area above the beak and surrounding the nostrils.
With adult budgies if the cere is bright blue the budgie is a male and if the cere is brown the budgie is a female. When a female is in breeding condition her cere will be dark brown and may become rough and crusty.
The above applies for most adult budgies except some color varieties such as albinos, fallows, lutinos and recessive pieds.
With young budgies the ceres of both sexes are the same colour, a purplish shade, so it is difficult to decipher their sex until they have been through their first molt at three to four months of age. Only then will the adult color show.
To the experienced eye the sex of a young budgie may be differentiated. The cere on a young male budgie tends to be more notable than a young female’s in that it is fuller and brighter. It takes on a pinkish shade whereas a female’s will have a bluish shade.
Another tip is that a young female tends to be more aggressive and bites harder than a young male.
5) budgie care – what is the best budgie food ?
Budgie diet is extremely important and is the key to having a healthy budgie – along with exercise.
Give your bird a good-quality budgie seed mix. These are readily available at pet suppliers and supermarkets. Insure the mixes do not contain an abundance of hulled oats as these are fattening, and do not buy the seed in bulk – you are best to purchase small fresh packets.
Alternatively, you can offer your budgie a pelleted diet.
Your budgie’s diet must be supplemented with fresh fruit and vegetables on a daily basis – refer to the fruit and vegetables question below.
Budgies enjoy spray millet and seed treats such as honey bells or sticks. However, these are fattening and should be offered occasionally as treats only. Pet budgies can become overweight very easily so I recommend offering spray millet once a week if your budgie is fairly active, or if not, only once a fortnight. Seed treats are best given at two monthly intervals.
Fresh drinking water is required daily. Also make available cuttlebone, and calcium, iodine and mineral blocks. Vitamin supplements in the drinking water once a week or fortnight are a good idea, although do not leave these in the water for long as bacteria grows very quickly. Some people prefer to sprinkle powdered vitamins onto the seed or moist food, eg apple pieces or spinach. Either way, be sure to follow the product’s directions with regard to dosage amount and frequency.
6) budgie health – are fruit and vegetables necessary ?
A budgie diet must be supplemented with fresh fruit and vegetables on a daily basis. An all seed diet often results in an unhealthy or overweight budgie.
Try the following:
FRUIT: apple, grape, guava, kiwi fruit, mango, melon, nectarine, orange, peach, pear, pomegranate, plum, strawberry, tangerine, watermelon
VEGETABLES: bok choy, broccoli, carrot (chopped or grated), celery, chard, lettuce (but small amounts of lettuce and not too often as not a lot of goodness), peas, silverbeet, spinach, sweetcorn, watercress, zucchini
PLANTS:
chickweed, clover, dandelion.
Favorites with budgies tend to be apple, carrot, silverbeet, spinach, sweetcorn.
Note that the fruit and vegetables should be provided:
thoroughly washed
in small pieces
at room temperature
unpeeled
free of cores, stones, pits or pips
raw (some budgies prefer certain vegetables cooked eg peas and
sweetcorn – use your judgment here)
fresh (obviously this will be the most nutritious for your budgie but
you can use frozen or canned)
Be aware that your budgie’s droppings may be runnier than usual with an intake of fruit and vegetables.
Some budgies will not take to fruit and vegetables straight away. Persevere as it can take up to a year before your budgie will eat them. Fruit and vegetables are an essential part of your budgie’s diet so offer them washed and fresh each day – do not give up!
7) budgies care – what budgie food can I not feed ?
Never give your budgie alcohol, avocado or chocolate – these can kill your budgie.
Also avoid asparagus, aubergine or eggplant, cabbage, caffeine (tea and coffee), junk food, milk and cream, raw potato, and rhubarb (including the leaves).
Please just use your common sense when it comes to feeding your budgie. Many plants and food items are unsafe, so if you have any doubt, do not offer it to your budgie.
budgie cage – what is the best budgie cage ?
Budgies are extremely active and need to stretch their wings and have space for fluttering around the cage. For this reason, your budgie cage should be lengthy rather than high in order to provide some room for flying.
In my opinion, the minimum cage requirement for one budgie is:
Across – 18 inches or 46 cm
Wide – 12 inches or 30 cm
High – 12 inches or 30 cm
Note: The cage base is in addition to these measurements.
Some extra tips:
when considering cage size remember to take into account the
cage fillers eg perches, seed and water dishes, toys, swings, ladders.
Do not clutter your budgie’s cage.
check the width of the cage bars – do not buy a cage
where the bars are wide enough to allow your budgie to
squeeze its head through and get caught
(as a guideline: just under ? an inch or just over 1 cm).
to enable your budgie to climb around its cage and get some
exercise, ensure the cage has horizontal bars as well as vertical
- do not buy a cage with vertical barring only.
a plastic removable tray at the bottom of the cage makes
cleaning easier.
9) budgie care – how much exercise for my budgie ?
Regardless of your budgie cage size please remember that in order to remain healthy and happy your budgie will require regular time out of its cage. It needs to exercise, so let your budgie out for a fly as often as possible – at least three times a week, but preferably daily. Insure all windows and doors are closed, and any hazards are out of the way.
Once you have established a routine allow your budgie time out on a daily basis – even if it just sits out on top of its cage for a while. The minimum time out should be one hour per day, but ideally your budgie should be able to come and go as it pleases, within reason, and depending on your home environment.
Do not keep your budgie locked up in its cage day in and day out.
10) breeding budgies – what age for budgie breeding ?
Budgies become sexually mature at 3 or 4 months of age but the ideal budgie breeding age is 12 months. You should not breed budgies until the male and female are at least 12 months of age.
What’s a Budgie? And is there a difference between budgies and parakeets??
Parakeets
Most people, at least in the United States, know them as “parakeets.” But their real name is “budgerigar.” The word comes from the aborigines of Australia, the parakeet homeland. The term “budgerigar” is often shortened to “budgie.” “Budgerigar” (or “budgie”) is a more specific name than “parakeet,” because parakeets are a large group of small parrots, including ringneck parakeets, Quaker parakeets, monk parakeets, etc.
Do budgies make good pets?
Parakeet Landing
If you ask me, budgies make awesome pets! But you want details, right? Well, budgies are very active, playful pets. They are also incredibly intelligent. Some learn to talk, and some budgies have a 100+ word vocabulary! If they were not hand fed or handled as babies, budgies can still usually become finger tame with some diligent training. Many owners of fully tamed budgies will swear that their budgie thinks it’s a human! Even if a budgie is not tamed, they still make enjoyable pets. Their antics and singing will brighten up any room in your home. And budgies who are not finger tame still can become friendly towards you, and even still learn to talk.
There are some downsides, however. You should know that budgies can be messy. Seeds and feathers tend to scatter around the cage, but a cage skirt (available at pet stores) will cut down on this problem tremendously. You also have to be diligent enough to make sure your budgie always has fresh food and water, and to make sure the cage bottom gets cleaned on a regular basis.
I want to get a budgie that will talk and be hand tame.
Well then, make sure you read this section! The best way to get a budgie that will become hand tame is to buy a baby (about 3 months old) that has either been hand fed or handled as a chick. He or she will already be at least somewhat hand tame! You are most likely to find this from a breeder, and most likely not to find this at a pet store. If you cannot find a breeder in your area and you have to buy a budgie from a pet store, you are going to want to make sure that he or she is still young. See my “Your Budgie’s Age” section to learn how to tell if a budgie is still young. The younger your new budgie, the greater the chances for he or she to become very hand tame and friendly. Another consideration is the budgie’s sex. In general, male budgies are a bit more friendlier than female budgies. Also, usually only male budgies end up learning to talk. Unfortunately it is very difficult to tell the sex of a young budgie. Luckily a young budgie will most likely end up becoming tamed no matter which sex it is. When choosing your budgie from a bunch that is already somewhat tame, besides any color preference you might have, choose one that seems to have a good personality. One that is more willing to sit on your finger and not bite will be a better choice than one who seems skittish.
For guidelines on choosing a budgie, see my FAQ article on buying a new budgie.
You will have better chances of your budgie becoming tame and staying that way if he is kept alone and not with another budgie. This is because a budgie kept alone will be more likely to bond to you instead of bonding to the other budgie (which is what will happen if you keep more than one budgie together). It is possible to tame a budgie who is kept with others, but it will most likely be much more difficult, and the chances of him learning to talk will also be greatly diminished. You also will not want to put any toys with mirrors in the cage, for the same reasons. Your budgie will actually think that the bird in the mirror is his friend! Once you have your budgie, see my “Taming and Talking” section.
What do I need to get started?
* Cage – Well you need a cage, of course. The cage is one of the most important considerations because it is your budgie’s home and will be where your budgie spends most of its time.
o Size – I recommend at least a 1.5 foot wide x 1.3 foot deep x 1.3 foot tall cage (about 45x40x40 cm). Remember, budgies are very active and playful, and they need plenty of room to stretch their wings, flap about, and climb around. Make sure the bars of the cage are no more than half an inch apart. This will prevent any mishaps with curious budgies getting their head or body stuck between the bars. For more info on appropriate cage sizes, click here.
o Perches – Make sure the cage is equipped with good quality perches. If you purchase a cage that only comes with plastic perches, the best thing to do is to buy some wooden perches. If you can, buy a couple perches that are differently sized/shaped. This will be good for your budgie’s feet. Also provide your budgie(s) with at least one natural branch perch. You can create one on your own with a tree determined as non-toxic to birds. You can also buy one at a pet or bird store. When arranging the perches, place some slightly higher and lower than each other if possible. If the cage is big enough, you can also place a small perch in the corner of the cage. Such a varied arrangement will stimulate exercise. You will also be able to enjoy watching your budgie hop cheerfully from perch to perch!
o Equipment – Also make sure the cage comes equipped with a cup for seed and a cup for water. If not, you will need to buy these at a pet store. You can also replace a water cup with a water tube and buy different types of feeders.
* Seed – The next thing you will need is a high quality seed. I do not recommend grocery store seed, which is usually poor quality and not as fresh. Use fresh seed with at least 40% straight canary seed. You can buy this at most pet stores, and it is best if they come in sealed plastic bags. You should also know that all those added colors in a lot of pet bird seeds are completely unnecessary. I would recommend avoiding seed containing artificially colored ingredients.
* Cuttle Bone and Mineral Block – You need to provide your budgie with a cuttle bone and a mineral block. These items are readily available at pet stores. These white powdery blocks provide your budgie with essential nutrients and calcium. You may notice your budgie uses one sometimes as a perch, or grinds away at it with their beak with a lot ending up on the floor. Don’t think that it is going to waste and take it out. A budgie left without these items for a long period of time will become deficient and may develop medical complications.
* Toys – Your budgie needs toys and items in the cage to keep them active and stimulated. A bored budgie can suffer both emotionally/behaviorally and even develop health problems. Remember, budgies are extremely active and playful. They like to jump, climb, flap, and perform acrobatic feats. Favorite budgie toys tend to be swings, bells, and lattice balls with bells in them. Rings and other toys are also great. Just remember to keep the size in mind. Make sure they are the correct size for budgies. Also check them out before you buy them to make sure they will be safe. It is not an uncommon occurrence for a budgie to become injured from a poorly designed toy, usually by getting their head stuck. Use the same discretion you would use in buying toys for a small child.
* Click here to open and print out the “New Budgie Checklist” (PDF document, requires Adobe Acrobat). It’s a list of everything you need to obtain and set up before you bring home your new budgie, as well as a guide to picking the right budgie for you!
(If you don’t have Adobe Acrobat, click here to download the Microsoft Word document version.)
What is involved in caring for a pet budgie?
* Daily Care – Your pet budgie needs daily attention if he or she is an only bird. If he is tame, take time each day to take him out and talk to him. If you’re having a busy day, try to take him out on your shoulder while you’re doing housework or doing your homework. If he is not hand tame, take some time and give him some attention. Talk to him or watch him sing and hop about. Every night it is a good idea to use a light sheet or blanket to cover the cage. This will not only provide security for your budgie, but will also help to keep him quiet if he has a sing-in-the-morning personality and you want to sleep past sunrise. Just be sure to uncover him every morning.
* Food and Water – You need to check your pet budgie’s cage every day to make sure he or she has plenty of food and water. Especially when the days are hot, change the water every day to keep it fresh. It is important to supplement your budgie’s diet, as a seed-only diet will not provide adequate nutrition. At least every other day try to provide your budgie with a fruit or veggie to munch on. Don’t leave fresh foods in the cage too long, perhaps a couple hours at the most. Budgie favorites include carrot tops, dark leafy greens, and strawberries. You will learn what your particular budgie has a preference for. Just make sure to keep his diet varied to ensure your budgie’s health and longevity.
* Cleaning and Maintenance – About once a week you will need to change out the liner in the bottom of the cage. I recommend using black and white newspaper as liner. (Some caution against using newspaper pages with colored inks.) You may also use paper towels, or lining or bedding you can buy at a pet shop. Maybe about once a month you will need to take out some of the perches to scrape any accumulated poops off. If the cage has a grate on the bottom, also scrape the accumulated poops off it, letting them fall onto the liner below, and then change out the liner. About once a year it may be a good idea to do a “spring cleaning” and thoroughly clean the cage. Take your budgie out of the cage and either put him in a room with someone for safekeeping or put him in a temporary or travel cage while you clean. Wash the perches with unscented soap and let them dry in the sun. Do the same for the cage and the tray. Hand wash the food and water dishes or run them through the dishwasher. Also give the toys a good cleaning. When you’re done and everything is dry, replace all the equipment, put the cuttlebone and mineral block back in, and refill with fresh food and water.
* Hazards – You want to do everything possible to keep your budgie away from hazards. Place his or her cage away from places where household cleaners and spray products such as hair spray are commonly used. And be sure you don’t spray these things near the cage. It is also a good idea to keep the cage away from the kitchen, where fumes from cooking mishaps (such as an overheated Teflon pot or smoke from burnt food) could harm your budgie. Also be sure to place the cage away from drafts, such as near an A/C vent. When you take your budgie out of his cage, be sure that any fans have been turned off and that there aren’t any other potential hazards looming around. Even a budgie with clipped wings can manage to flap his way into a fan or out a window, especially if he becomes startled for any reason. Just be sure to exercise caution while your budgie is out of the cage.
BUDGIE CARE SHEET
Parakeets (budgies) are tiny and beautiful members of the parrot family, originally found in the dry grasslands of Australia. These cheerful companions are capable of living a long and healthy life if given the kind of care they deserve and need. Budgies are also easy to breed, and can become a very rewarding hobby. Two basic types exist: American, or small standard budgies, and English, or large size budgies.
HOW MANY SHOULD I BUY?
If you are home frequently and can give your pet plenty of attention a single bird may do very well. However, remember that if your life becomes busier, it may be best to purchase a second bird later on (any sex). Budgies will not actually breed without the provision of a nestbox, and two males will get along as well as a true pair or two females. Budgies can be sexed once they are mature by looking at the cere or noseband. All adult females have a brown cere; most males have a blue cere, although lutino (yellow), albino, and pied budgie males have a pinkish cere.
NUTRITION:
An iodine block or a cuttlebone, and a treat cup containing oyster shell should be available at all times (except during illness). Regular gravel or grit is loved by budgies but the oyster shell makes a calcium rich substitute. VME seed is an excellent basic diet because fat soluble vitamins including vitamin A are added to hulled oat groats ( a favourite seed). However, the use of Prime is also recommended as trace minerals, amino acids and beneficial bacteria are also supplied by this product. Without Prime, or other animal source proteins, the budgie will not produce the beautiful feather quality they should after moulting. Sprinkle the Prime onto green treats such as sprouts, spinach, romaine lettuce, parsley, dandelions, clover and chickweed. Budgies can be offered green food in small amounts every day.
CAGE:
Standard parakeet cages are designed for budgies that will be allowed out each day for exercise. Talk to your veterinarian about safety during these excursions. Most budgies have the wings clipped during taming, but are allowed flight later on. However many dangers are found in the home – always supervise! If you need help trimming the wing feathers, ask your veterinarian or pet retailer. Many Hagen cages are easily disassembled to allow ready removal of the newly clipped young budgie for taming and training sessions. You may wish to remove any swings from the cage until tame, and you should add natural branches to the cage to supplement the standard perches. Fresh branches are great for perching and chewing – try willow, alder, ash, birch, or apple. Just remove the leaves and replace every 4-6 weeks.
Budgerigar Care Basics
A Budgerigar is a friendly, cheerful companion for young and old alike, and is particularly suitable for flats and other situations where a larger pet may not be practical.
Baby budgies are classified as “bar-heads”. This means that the feathering across the top of the head carries on down to the beak in a series of “bars”, hence the name.
This is a sure indication of the age of the baby, as when the bird reaches the age of 8 – 12 weeks the bars gradually disappear until eventually the top of the head is completely clear.
The cere – the band of flesh across the top of the budgies beak – is blue for a * or brown for a hen. However, this does not apply to Lutino or Albino varieties.
Your new purchase will probably be handed to you in a small pet box. This is the best method of transportation, and ensures that your budgie will remain safe and protected until you are ready to install him in his new home. It is not advisable to attempt to transport birds in
cages.
CAGES
Any large cage, as stocked by the pet shop should be suitable for your pet. Ladders and swings provide exercise for your bird.
We suggest that you adopt the following procedure before letting your budgie out of the box. First, site the cage in a room subject to an even temperature an free of draughts, and position it so that the cage is not too near the window as this may cause too much heat from direct sunlight in the summer and be too cold in the winter.
It should also be in a position where it cannot be interfered with by cats or dogs. The cage should be set up complete with food and water and initially a small amount of seed should be sprinkled on the floor to ensure that the budgie has enough to eat while he is finding the seed pots.
When everything is ready, you should gently open one end of the box and let the budgie walk into the unfamiliar surroundings of the new cage. At first he may be bewildered, and perhaps fly around wildly in the unfamiliar surroundings of the new cage. If he does not settle down readily, drape a cloth around three sides and the top of the cage to afford him some security. Gradually this can be removed as he becomes accustomed to his new surroundings.
He should be left well alone on the first day to re-adjust. As he regains his confidence he will start to explore his new home. Very young birds may just sit on the perch or floor, and the seed scattered in the floor ensures that he finds enough to eat during this time. If after 24 hours a young bird has not moved and shows no signs of eating, then please take him
back to the shop. They may decide to put him back with his former companions until he is eating well again and has regained his confidence. However it is very rare that this problem should arise.
FEEDING
Budgies are very easy to feed and most pet shops can supply a basic budgie feed mixture consisting of canary, white millet and pannicum seeds. Always ask
for a mixture similar to that on which your pet has already been fed. The seed dishes should be checked every day, as a budgie shucks the seed as he eats, swallowing the kernel whole and leaving the empty husks on the top of the seed dish. These should be blown away to reveal the whole seed.
Millet sprays can be provided in small quantities as a treat, but not in excess as they are extremely fattening.
Honey bells and seed bars may also be offered. Another essential is good quality bird grit, which helps the bird grind up the seed after it has been swallowed.
Cuttlefish and a mineral block should always be provided, as the first provides calcium and the latter mineral and trace elements that may be lacking in the seed diet. Small quantities of green food may also be provided in the form of apple, spinach, chickweed and so on, but it should always be well washed to avoid
contamination from insecticides.
TOYS
It is a mistake to fill your new pet’s cage with toys especially in the early days when he is adjusting to his new surroundings. Toys should be introduced gradually, starting with a mirror, then a ladder, then on to other toys as his interest quickens. Rather than fill the cage with toys, it is better to change the actual toys
from time to time to afford some variety for the bird.
If your family are all out at work each day, leaving the budgie on his own, the best toy would be another budgie! These little birds are gregarious by nature and welcome their own company.
TAMING/TEACHING TO TALK
There is nothing more delightful than a finger-tame, talking pet, but to achieve this takes time and patience. Initially all that should be done is to position your chair next to his cage during the evening, until your regular
presence has created confidence. The first phrase you wish the bird to say should be repeated clearly and distinctly. It is also a good idea to have the phrase written on a card placed above the cage so that everyone who talks to the bird will repeat the same
phrase.
The next step is to open the cage door, making sure he cannot escape and gently place your hand inside the cage talking quietly all the time, until he becomes accustomed to its presence and ceases to fly around the cage. Eventually he will walk across your palm, and will even perch on your finger. Only when he is used to perching on your finger should you attempt to bring him out of the cage. First make sure that all the doors are shut, fireplaces guarded, and windows closed and curtains drawn. All ornaments that might be knocked down should be removed.
Initially it is advisable to stop your pet from flying off by placing a thumb gently over his foot.
Leave him thus for a few minutes, and then return him to the cage, repeating on successive evenings until he is used to the procedure. Care must be taken not to startle the bird. If he should start to fly around nervously leave well alone until he settles then approach and try to pick him up. If he flies wildly around the room, do not try to chase him or weeks of gaining confidence will be lost.
Both cocks and hens may be taught to speak, so do not stop training if your youngster matures into a hen.
BATHING
Like all other birds, budgies need moisture to soften the sheaths of their quills, and allow their new feathers to grow through straight and strong. Many feather disorders can occur through feathers becoming too dry.
One way of supplying necessary moisture is to spray sufficiently early in the morning to allow time for him to dry thoroughly before he roosts in the evening. Your pet shop will be able to supply a mist spray suitable for this
job, also a solution to spray on that will ensure his feathers are kept fit and clean. Some budgies enjoy using a bath, but not all.
SAND SHEETS
Do not worry if your budgie chews up the sand sheets you have provided on the floor. This is a natural habit of all parakeets, and does no harm. However, if you prefer, obtain some clean cage bird sand from the pet shop and place this on the cage bottom. It is a good idea to supply some small twigs from fruit trees, such as apple, properly washed and cleaned for your pet to chew on.
COVERING UP AT NIGHT
Where a room is adequately warm at all hours this need may not arise, but it is advisable to cover up the cage if the room becomes much colder as the night wears on. This will protect your bird from chilling, but once started should be continued or the bird may catch a chill if left without protection.
HEALTH
Properly cared for, your pet will live a long and happy life, but certain illnesses can strike, the commonest of which are colds and diarrhoea. The first is often caused by chilling.
If your pet appears listless, with feathers fluffed up, and apparently wheezing, keep him warm. Your pet shop can also supply medicines for this ailment or will suggest that you take the bird to a vet, but the main
remedy must be prevention. Do not subject your pet to chills or draughts.
Diarrhoea is usually caused by feeding an excess of green food, mouldy seed, or food that may have been contaminated by rodents or insects. Again, your pet shop has cures for diarrhoea or enteritis, but may advise you to consult a vet. Remember, delay kills.
Another problem, which may arise, is red mites. These are parasitic mites that feed on the blood of your pet. They may be found on the ends of perches where they rest during the day, and appear as a small red blob. Overgrown beaks and toenails can usually be dealt with by the pet shop also.
SHOPPING LIST
* Cage
* Food and water containers
* Food
* Bird Grit
* Sand sheets
* Cuttlefish and Mineral Block
* Mist spray
* Toys i.e., mirror, ladder etc
Remember this is just basic information only. Ask your pet store retailer to recommend suitable books on the subject. Very Important: Get an Avian Veterinarian!
HOPE THIS HELPS!
hope I helped.